If you love food, you’ll adore this Texas city

I never liked refried beans. At least not until I visited San Antonio. 
The beans there were a revelation. Hearty, smoky and savory, they tasted like they were made by a legion of grandmas, pouring tender loving care into every restaurant where the staple was served. 
And beans were just the beginning. Every meal I had in the Alamo City proclaimed it as one of the best food cities in America, and it has the world-class recognition to boot. 
San Antonio is one of only two U.S. cities recognized by the U.N. Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization as a Creative City of Gastronomy. The other is Tucson, Arizona. 
“Gastronomy is the celebration of our local culinary heritage and culture, but also how we sustain, share and blend it with new influences,” the City of San Antonio says on its website. 
San Antonio’s roots are Mexican, Spanish and German, but its vibrant food scene reflects the many other cultures and communities that have come to call the city home.  
That mix of tradition and innovation has drawn the attention of Michelin, which chose San Antonio and four other cities to be featured in the inaugural Michelin Guide Texas, out Nov. 11. The other cities are Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth and Houston. 
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The first thing I ate in San Antonio set the bar for the entire trip: breakfast tacos at Eddie’s Taco House, a family-run restaurant with colorful mural walls and a commitment to “quality food and great service … always at an affordable price,” according to its website. 
These were nothing like the tacos I’d had for breakfast before. First, there were so many options, ranging from beans and rice to crispy chicharrónes and eggs to carne guisada, a stewed beef in gravy also offered in the breakfast buffet at my hotel, Hotel Gibbs. Second, the flour tortillas were thick and pillowy soft. I later discovered that like mind-blowing beans, homemade quality is standard in San Antonio. Third, the tacos were huge, affirming the adage everything is bigger in Texas. I couldn’t even finish mine. Lastly, they were tasty and cheap, ranging from $1.69 and to $5.99 each.  
Over the course of three days, I ate my way through the city, trying everything from Texas barbecue at Pinkerton’s to modern Mexican cuisine at Rosario’s. I sampled every flavor of concha roll at La Panaderia and figured out why Rita’s on the River is known as “where we take our friends from out of town” − its menu will feel familiar to fans of Mexican restaurants wherever they call home.  
The one place I kept returning to was the Historic Pearl. Once a more than century-old brewery, the mixed-use complex now houses the elegant Hotel Emma, an array of shops, numerous eateries including a food hall and Bakery Lorraine, and one of the top 10 farmers markets in America, according to USA TODAY 10Best Readers’ Choice awards. It’s also home to the Culinary Institute of America Texas. 
The campus’ managing director and Culinary Institute of America alum, April Goess, told USA TODAY the CIA selected San Antonio for its third U.S. location largely because of its rich cultural heritage and culinary scene, with strong Latin American influences. 
Since opening in 2008, the prestigious culinary school has further added to the city’s culinary reputation, and, Goess noted, played a pivotal role in the city’s designation as an UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, which is not just about cooking. 
“The designation also recognizes San Antonio’s commitment to sustainability and inclusivity in its culinary practices,” she said. “The city actively promotes sustainable food systems, supports local farmers, and fosters community engagement through various food-related initiatives and events.” 
She said the CIA’s Texas campus hosts numerous such activities throughout the year, like its annual Paella Challenge with CIA alum and local restauranteur Chef Johnny Hernandez.  
“Graduates from the CIA San Antonio often stay in the city, bringing their skills and knowledge to local restaurants and food businesses, thereby enriching the culinary landscape,” she said. 
Some alumni have opened restaurants with a range of price points right in the Pearl district, like six-time James Beard Award finalist Chef Steve McHugh’s restaurant Cured. James Beard-nominated Chef Nicola Blaque has Freight Fried Chicken at the Pearl and The Jerk Shack on the west side of the city. Chef Susan Rigg’s award-winning River Whey Creamery cheeses are served at numerous Pearl restaurants and available for sale at Pullman Market at the Pearl and at the Pearl’s Winter Holiday Night Markets. Hernandez has La Gloria at the Pearl and numerous other restaurants around town. The CIA also has a student-run restaurant, Savor, and bakery cafe at the Pearl. 
Of course, there are other things to do in San Antonio besides eat.  
Free entertainment options include strolling along the River Walk, visiting each of the four missions in San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, and joining seasonal celebrations like Fiesta. 
San Antonio CityPASS grants visitors access to some of the city’s most popular sites, like theAlamo exhibit and church, Witte Museum, San Antonio Zoo and Tower of the Americas for one flat fee. 
Families with kids may enjoy the nearly century-old Kiddie Park with pint-sized pay-as-you-go rides, sprawling Hemisfair playground, immersive art exhibits at Hopscotch, and the world’s first ultra-accessible theme park, Morgan’s Wonderland. 
I enjoyed all of those over my three days in the city. But I especially enjoyed the food. 
The reporter on this story received access from Visit San Antonio. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of reviews.